Green Marlene Shorts: Behind the Seams-Construction

So to finish off my Behind the Seams (pattern adjustments here) posts about the Green Marlene Shorts.

Green BurdaStyle Marlene Trousers-Make It Nifty-05 Inside FrontI wanted to make sure that I could adjust the fit of these shorts if I needed to, so I tried to construct them so the side seams were sewn towards the end.

  • Sew back waist darts; press flat and press to centre.
  • Stay stitched top and bottom of waistband & waistband facings; top of trousers & pocket opening on trouser
  • Sewed pocket facings to pant fronts, pressed flat; clipped; pressed to wrong side of garment
  • Top stitched pocket opening
  • Sewed interfaced back waistbands to trouser backs, pressed flat; clipped; pressed seam allowances up towards waistband
  • Joined trouser fronts at crotch seam, pressed flat; clipped; pressed seam allowances open
  • Joined interfaced front waistband to trouser front pressed flat; clipped; pressed seam allowances up towards waistband
  • Inserted the zip at centre back (CB) – sewed CB seam pressed flat & open, pinned and machine basted the zip, on right side of garment, top stitched along zip starting at bottom and working up each side
  • Overlocked the hems, crotch seam on fronts and backs overlocked seam allowance at
  • Unpicked zip (which unfortunately included some CB overlocking)
  • Overlocked the CB overlocking I had unpicked
  • Sewed waistband facings to top of trousers; pressed flat; clipped; pressed seam allowances up towards waistband
  • Re-sewed zip – sewed CB seam pressed flat & open, pinned and hand basted the zip, on right side of garment, top stitched along zip starting at bottom and working up each side
  • Sewed side seams and inner leg seam. Pressed seams flat then open.
  • Tried them on for size
  • Took in about 2cm at each side seam by sewing a new seam line about 1cm in at the waist and reduced it to nothing about 7cm below the waistband.
  • Turned up the hems and pressed
  • Hand stitched the waistband facing down

Green BurdaStyle Marlene Trousers-Make It Nifty-07 DetailsPutting the shorts together this way meant that I had to ease a longer back inner leg into a shorter front inner leg, which meant that I got a couple of little puckers in the inner leg seam. In future I would change up the construction so that I wouldn’t have to do that. After sewing the pockets the order would be:

  • Join waistband pieces to waistband facings,
  • Inner leg seams,
  • crotch seam (excl. zip opening),
  • waistbands to trousers,
  • Insert zip,
  • Sew side seams,
  • Check fit
  • Hem
  • Sew down waistband facing

Other notes
Interfacing the zip opening might have made for a better finish around the zip. Especially with broadcloth being a loose weave fabric. I also should have double sewn the crotch seam – you’ll find out why in a minute.

Final Comment
After wearing these shorts for the first time the waistband stretched out. I suppose it’s because the fabric is not very sturdy. I’ll have to try making these in a stiffer fabric to see how that affects the fit and wear of the pattern.

I also had a crotch malfunction (probably shouldn’t type that too much :/ ). A couple of holes started forming along the seam. I’ve never really thought about how hard some seams work; apparently this one was working pretty hard!

Green BurdaStyle Marlene Trousers_Pattern Adjustments crotch-Make It NiftyI fixed the holes and sewed another line along the seam and it did the trick. Before the weather turned cool I kept wearing these with the loose waistband, but I’ll just have to bite the bullet and adjust them when the weather warms up again. I’m not sure if I’ll just bring in the side seams – which will mess with the pocket openings or add some pleats to the front of each leg. We will see.

How do you guarantee a good fit?
Do you make a toile or muslin?
Do you construct your garments in a special way?

Until next time,
blogpostsignoff